For those looking to get some distance out of their new KTM, there are a number of options for larger fuel tanks now. The fuel pumps on the 2011 & 2012 models add some extra challenges for designers, so the tanks have taken a while to get to market.

At first the 2.25 gallon OEM tanks on the new XC-W and EXC models seem small, but with the good fuel mileage numbers, these bikes can get nearly 100 miles of dual sport riding in. The OEM tanks are designed to accommodate the emissions equipment that is underneath, so they do not take full advantage of the space available under the tank. That means there is room to grow the capacity without the perimeter of the tank gaining too much bulk.

KTM sent us the  13 litre (3.4 gallon) model, while Ben Rosenthal from Just Gas Tanks came by to show me the latest from Acerbis. He also expects the Clockwork tank to be in at any time. The retail price for the KTM tank is $299. Just Gas Tanks sells the Acerbis models for $229 (3.2gl) and $339 (5.3gl). Considering the fuel economy of the new fuel injected bikes, with the largest tank, a 200 mile range should be possible.

Here is a quick look at the tanks and the process of installing them. In general, these tanks are designed for all four stroke EXC / XC-W models (250-500)  and some XC-F & SX-F models. Make sure to verify applications, there are three different part numbers for the KTM tanks, including two stroke. The Acerbis tanks will not work with the EXC emissions equipment. All of these tanks require a parts kit similar to what is shown with the KTM 13 Litre model, with new hose clamp, fuel line fitting and anchor fitting.

Related posts:

1. New From Safari, Offroad and Adventure Bike Tanks
2. 2012 KTM Fuel Injection & Filter Discussion
3. First Look at 2011 KTM Models

Linkage is newer so it must be better, right?

Here is one of those questions that I wish I had a nickel for every time someone asked about it. Which is better? I would now have a pile of nickels, at least enough to buy a gallon of gas. Nevertheless, it is a great question.

I think I have a handle on the issue, but another rider, in different terrain might come up with something different from I do. KTM doesn’t help the matter much, because no matter how much they try to tell people what is best for a certain type of riding, their pro riders are often doing something completely different.

KTM says that linkage is best for motocross and PDS is the choice for off road riding. In general, the SX and XC lines get linkage while the XCW and EXC retain the PDS system. KTM North America does not race XCW or EXC models, but in Europe, they only race those models.

US riders, particularly the GNCC guys, want the lightest, fastest bike they can get. For the most part, it is so they have the most potent package on the starting line, but part of this is also just image, motocross bikes look more badass than ones with headlights. Therefore, nearly every US racer, east or west, is on a linkage bike. As I write this, the race team is playing musical bikes, trying to get the Dungey replica developed for off road competition. So it is a little hard to keep up with just who is on what bike. Mullins has gone back to the “old” twin cam 450sxf for the time being.

The exception to this is the Husaberg. All Husaberg models are PDS, so Lafferty and Fahringer are link less. I talked with Lafferty about the choices some last fall. He said that he had tested the KTM link bikes and did not feel they were the best choice for enduro. You might have noticed that Mike Brown rode a PDS bike in the Endurocross series last year also. His teammate Taddy used the 350SXF with linkage.

I have been lucky enough to ride and race both, so here are some of my impressions.

Linkage

• The new linkage bikes excel at hitting things way too hard. The first time I hit a big road crossing in the desert on the 350xcf, the bike didn’t even move. That was impressive.
• Harsher on smaller hits.
• Sort of dead feeling, not as much positive feedback,
• Very good at absorbing sharp hits, like square edges, on both the track and trail.

PDS

• The newest PDS shocks have a far plusher ride.
• Keeps the rear tire on the ground better, even over roller whoops,
• With the tire on the ground getting traction, it drives the bike forward better.
• Still suffers some on the bigger hits.

Just last week I rode the 500xcw on the track alongside the 450sxf. This was on a large natural terrain GP style course. For the most part, the two bikes were very similar. Lap times were nearly identical also. The 500 was less tiring to ride, partly due to the motor, but also because it was a much smoother ride.

There was one section of whoops on the track. On the SXF, I would just hit them straight on in third gear, no problem. If I did the same on the XCW, the rear would get out of shape. What I had to do on the 500 was wheelie into the whoops and then double out over the last two. Basically, I had to ride in a manner that let the rear wheel stay on the ground.

This was indicative of what I found on the 350XCF that I raced last year. You never have to think about how to approach an obstacle, just hit it. This is particularly true on the motocross track. For me the real revelation was square edge holes on a jump face, the linkage bike acts as if they are not even there. That is something the PDS bikes still cannot quite match.

Talking with one of the KTM test riders, he tells me he can dial the PDS in to nearly any situation, but it is much more sensitive to changes in conditions. For example, what works in the morning when the track conditions are moist and smooth, does not work in the afternoon when things dry out and get rough. The linkage is far less sensitive to changing conditions.

The PDS has come quite a ways in the last few years. Last fall I raced my 2007 450xc in a desert race and it was clear how far things have come. The RFS is never as planted feeling and the steering is not as accurate because the bike is moving around so much.

When talking about the positive traits of the linkage, I am talking about riding at full race pace. For anything short of race speed, the PDS wins nearly every time. The strong feedback gives the rider a much better understanding of what is going on out back.

So for the most part, KTM is right about the way they portray the two systems. Linkage is best for moto and cross-country racing where high speed hits are common. PDS is better for most other riding for its smooth ride and ability to handle low speed impacts.

The “high/low” speed refers to shock piston speed, not necessarily bike speed. The faster the shock needs to respond, the better the linkage works because it assists the shock. For low speed sensitivity, the PDS is better because it is controlled strictly by the shock dampening without interference from the progressive link.

For maintenance and durability, I think they are about even. The linkage shock is kind of a pain to get out of the bike, the top subframe bolts need to come out. Also, the exhaust mid pipe will not come out until the shock is loose. The PDS is cool because the shock comes out in seconds. The link arrangement seems to be holding up well. It looks  vulnerable to damage, but I have not had any issues and that is with a 200lb rider on the smallish 350. When servicing the PDS it is important to understand how to bleed air out of the system, it takes lots of pressure and not every shop is really set up to do it properly.

For me, the PDS is probably the best choice, but it is almost a push. On the 2012 500xcw, it works very well. I still get a few hits that upset the bike, like big road crossings in the desert. However, I am riding it stock with just a heavier spring. I think that with a little valving help and more set up time it could be almost perfect.

Related posts:

1. Chilly’s Blog – Riding versus Testing
2. KTM Debuts 2011 350exc-f Race Team Bikes

Get rid of the grunge!

If you own a KTM, particularly a four stroke, then you are probably familiar with that persistent oil leak that develops around the countershaft. After a couple of years use, nearly every bike weeps a little oil from behind the sprocket. Mine has been that way for long while now. During the last ride, my small leak developed into a very large one. Not the most enjoyable thing to happen on a long trip. So it is time to get it the seal replaced and clean everything up down there.

So here are a few tips for doing the job. It is not very difficult and with the correct tools can be accomplished in about half an hour. So why does it leak in the first place? I get asked that question relatively often. There are four main components that work to keep the oil in the motor.

• The first is a small o-ring that is located on the countershaft.
• Second is the sleeve that slides over the countershaft and holds the o-ring in place.
• Third is the seal that fits in the engine case and around all of the above parts.
• Fourth is the bolt and convex washer that keep the sprocket on the shaft. The washer applies pressure to keep all the parts pressed firmly against the o-ring.

The o-ring does the majority of the work, but if the washer looses tension it allows all the parts to move and loose their seal. For this install we are using the new hardened replacement washer from Dirt Tricks. This is significantly better material than the stock one and should not lose its tension over time.

These steps are the same for just about every contemporary full size KTM. The only difference on two stroke models is the use of a clip instead of a bolt to hold the countershaft sprocket in place.

Here are all the parts involved

In this case the convex washer has lost its tension, it will spin freely with my finger

My prefered method for removing the countershaft bolt is to use my foot on the rear brake pedal while loosening the bolt with a large breaker bar

Here you can see the spacer as it fits over the countershaft and into the seal

On the left is the very worn spacer, replacement spacer on right

If you do not have a seal puller: To remove seal, drill small hole and carefully insert a drywall screw just a few threads until it grabs

Next -Page 2

No related posts.

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I destroyed the taillight subfender on my dual sport bike. It had lasted a number of years and I think it just finally broke. I had a stock XC-w tail light in the pile of used parts, so I mounted that up. What I have always disliked about the older stock KTM lights is how poor the 1157 bulb works. They are not very bright, break easy and always seem to corrode themselves into the socket. Sicass has a really nice LED replacement option. This is a complete light assembly that mounts to the sub fender. It is super bright and like all Sicass parts is just a plug and play install.

After testing the 2012 KTM 350EXC, one of my biggest complaints was about the stock headlight. Again it just doesn’t put out much power. Sicass now has a halogen bulb option that will plug right into all of the contemporary KTM headlights. For that matter, any light with an S2 base. Where the stock bulb is 35/35  watt output, this jumps to  40/45 watts. So it should be a nice improvement.  As soon as I get a chance to do some night riding I will give a report back.

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2. Buying Motorcycle Parts on Ebay
3. Racing With Stock KTM Tank

Here is a great look at some of the newest things out there for lighting. Obviously it does not include everything available, particularly the newest Squadron LED from Baja Designs. The technology is changing quickly, but there are some great options out there for practical LED lighting now. The pricing is reasonable and they should be very durable. The photos really show some of the subtle differences in the light choices. Chilly

 

Baja Designs Halogen paired with Black Dog Cycle Works LEDs

By Gordon White

In preparation for the annual Halloween 24 hour race at Starvation Ridge in South Central Washington this year, I thought I would do some light testing. The 17 mile course was a lot of nice “grass track” type conditions, which chopped out quickly, broken up of course with a canyon or two, some rock gardens, a good rock hill and a few short sections of farm road. The winning average speed was 33 MPH and our old geezer team averaged 24 MPH.

This is our second year running in this race. My bike is a 2009 KTM 300xc-w, that I think puts out a total of 110 watts, 70 watts of AC power for the lights and 40 watts of DC power to the 3 AH battery.

This time I was going to go better prepared for the night sections. My friend Kurt Forget at Black Dog Cycle Works (blackdogCW.com) suggested I try a pair of the Rigid Industries D2 driving lights. These are a very small unit and Kurt has designed a lower triple clamp bracket that puts a light below and on each side of the existing headlight or number plate.

After a lot of field testing, I decided to run two separate lighting systems for reliability. I used a Baja Designs headlight/number plate combo with a halogen H4 hi/low bulb on the AC system, on the DC side I had a pair of Rigid D2 driving lights but could only use one at a time as my bike’s limited  DC output wouldn’t support both. I also had a Trail Tech 2½” HID helmet light for a 3rd independent system. The total combination system worked well.

After the race Rigid released some new equipment and I was able to borrow some 8” lights and decided to do some comparison testing. I tried some light meter testing but found that this didn’t always tell the whole story due to the difference in light patterns and color characteristics. We finally just settled on a written evaluation and photos. All photos were taken at F5 for 2 seconds. A big tractor battery supplied the power so there was no draw down.

Halogen Lights

These are old school and relatively inexpensive. They work on either AC or DC and can have both high or low beam in one bulb, allowing a quick recovery if one burns out. The light is very yellow compared to the rest of this group. My bike will pull these at an idle with very little dimming.

Baja Designs Headlight/number plate unit, $96

This unit uses an H4 Halogen car type bulb but does not put out as much light due to the smaller reflector. This comes with a 55/60 watt bulb and is the only light in this test to have Hi/Lo capability. Several people had recommended the Sylvania Silver Star bulb as an upgrade. I tried one but could not detect much improvement on overall quality. Still, this is a very suitable set up for riders who only occasionally need lights. Replacement bulbs are inexpensive and easy to find.

Trail Tech 8” halogen, 55 w, H1 bulb, $275

This light has good distance but is almost a spot and needs side lights to fill in. Although, as you can see in the photos, our test light was not a huge improvement over the Baja Designs light.  I would have liked to have seen it configured for the H4 Hi/Lo bulb but that may have reduced the distance. Its light is also yellow.

HID Lights

Trail Tech 8” HID, 42 watt, DC only, $515

This unit has more distance by a small amount than any other light in this test, but does not have much beam width. It projects a bluish light. This type of light is the current standard in Baja racing.

The downside includes:

1. Power demand: while it lists at 42 watts it requires about 70 watts  start-up and it will not run below 11 volts.
2. Bulbs are expensive about $150.
3. It’s big, heavy and easy to damage.

LED Lights

All of the LED lights in this test are from Rigid Industries and were supplied by Black Dog Cycle Works. They are about 3” square, lightweight, sealed units, almost indestructible, have a 50,000 hr. bulb life, a lifetime warranty and are made in the U.S.A.  Larger size lights are available for different truck and UTV applications. They produce a bright pure white light. Colored snap on covers are available, including a fog lense. The manufacturer claims they work from 9 to 36 volt, but in my test they seem to work well down to 8 volts, a real advantage on weaker systems.

Rigid D2 driving: 6 bulb, 28 watts, DC $199 ea

This is a good all around light, excellent beam width and good distance.

Rigid 2X2 flood: 4 bulb, 15 watt DC $109 ea

This light doesn’t quite match the D2 above but it’s low cost and low power consumption make it a great value. It has a wide beam useful for tighter riding areas.

Rigid 2X2spot: 4 bulb, 15 watt DC $109 ea

This has better distance than the D2 and any other light in this test except the 8”  HID perhaps, but it is a narrow beam.

Summary

Things are changing fast. The new LEDs are cheaper, more indestructible and require less electricity than the currently dominating big HIDs. The Rigid 2×2’s we tested are greatly improved over the ones I tested a few months ago. One of our team is giving up his 8” HID and going to run a combination of three Rigids for reliability, indestructibly, and visibility of course.

As for me, my main concern is reliability, so I want to stay with a dual AC/DC system. I’m going to run the Baja Designs with an H4 Hi/Lo bulb on the AC side. These lights automatically come on when you start the engine. On the DC line I will run one D2 driving and one 2×2 spot. These will have to be turned off and on each time. My bike won’t pull both on a full-time basis, so I’ll just have to run the spot when I hit a road stretch. Yes, I know I could upgrade my charging system.

Thanks to Kurt Forget at Blackdogcycleworks.com for equipment and photography and Don Noble at Mays Honda, Sandpoint, ID for equipment and advice.

If you would like to get a better look at these pictures, you can see them in higher resolution at this link. It really helps to show some of the subtle differences between the different combinations.

Photo Link

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2. 2012 KTM 500EXC Review
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There is quite a bit of chatter going on about issues with the KTM fuel injection systems. While I have not encountered any problems with either the 2011 or 2012 bikes that I have tested, I thought I would look into the issue to see what I could find and hopefully provide some explanation of the system.

The symptoms of a clogged filter are somewhat vague, but generally a poor running condition and/or a bike that will not idle.

On the 2011 fuel injected bikes, 250 & 350 SX-f and XC-f, the bikes have a fuel filter inside the gas tank. Apparently, some issues with clogged injectors arose with those models. For 2012, all fuel injected bikes now also have a secondary inline fuel filter.

So far, it appears that the inline fuel filter may be the cause of more issues, rather than the cure. The 10 micron membrane is so small that it is very prone to clogging. KTM has issued a technical bulletin (TB1202) that directs dealers to replace the 10 micron filter with an updated, larger opening, 20 micron filter. Part of the service bulletin includes updating all 2011 models to run the inline filter.

This is a warranty service. There are a couple of different part numbers for the repair, depending upon the model of the bike. I have included a photo of one of those parts, where you can see the new filters and hose clamp. The OEM clamp is a one-time use crimp on item, so it needs to be replaced.

Changing the inline filer is a fairly simple task. It requires removal of the seat and gas tank. Then the fuel line is removed from the fuel rail with one Phillips head screw. With this apart, you remove the hose camp at the “L” fitting and access the filter.

Reinstalling the fuel line to the fuel rail is a little more difficult. There is very little space to line the L fitting up properly and the orange O-ring needs to be treated with care to avoid damage. A very light dose of grease around the O-ring will help it slide into place. Make sure to place the O-ring on the male end of the L fitting, not inside the fuel rail. Along with keeping a spare filter handy, I would keep a fresh O-ring also, just in case.

Depending on the model, it may be possible to remove the fuel line directly from the L fitting. That would eliminate the need to remove the L fitting from the injector body. Loosening and rotating the injector body may help with the access. On our 2012 500XC-W model, this did not appear possible due to the location of the frame rail and wiring harness. It looks like the placement on the forthcoming “Dungey” edition 450SX-F will be completely different.

Can a repair be made trailside? The answer is yes, but only if the original hose clamp has already been replaced with a reusable one. In an emergency, the inline filter could simply be removed and run without it.

I spent some time talking with RJ Savage at All American KTM in Ramona to see what he could tell me. He has serviced a number of bikes for this already. The first thing he told me was that not a single bike had shown any sign of dirt in the filter. His belief is that this is simply a fuel issue. What is clogging the filter is varnish or other impurities associated with the gas. You can imagine how easy a pilot jet gets clogged with current fuels and with an opening that is hundreds of times larger than a 10 micron filter.

He has also had some success, in emergencies, simply back washing the filter with either gas and/or compressed air. This eliminates having to take the filter assembly apart. RJ recommends the use of a fuel additive to all of his customers. They have tried a couple of different products and like the Star Tron fuel treatment. Another option would be to use Chevron Techtron fuel injection cleaner at a ratio of 1oz per gallon of fuel. All American has had no repeat issues on bikes that have the updated filter.

I know many riders are concerned about the potential of being stuck out of the trail with any kind of problem that may leave them stranded. Like any new technology, there will be a learning curve for the owners about the system and the maintenance that goes with it.

KTM has not issued any specific care instructions regarding this yet. I expect that at some point they will specify a service interval for replacing these filters. As an owner, I would just treat this as a regular maintenance item, to use a fuel treatment regularly and plan to replace the inline filter at regular intervals.

Related posts:

1. Oversize Fuel Tanks for KTM Fuel Injected Models
2. 2013 KTM XC-W Model Introduction
3. Chilly’s Blog- On a Roll

Here is a quick clip: clutch inspection on the 2006 KTM 450xc

The miles continue to add up on my dual sport bike. But as always it runs like a champ. I keep thinking maybe I should sell it and try to pick up a lower mileage model, but I will probably just ride this one until it dies and I have to part it out. I don’t know why, but I swear it is as strong, if not more so, that my 2007 bike that has far fewer miles on it. We just finished up a 750 mile Baja trip and now I am thinking about maintenence issues. This Baja ride had plenty of highway miles, so I set the 450 up with 15/48 gearing. This is pretty tall for technical riding and there were some locations that I had to use the clutch more than normal. Once home, I figured it was time for a clutch inspection.

I must say, that as the miles rack up, I can really see how the 450 is much easier on parts than my previous 525 was. I love the 525 motor, but the extra torque is hard on everything; chain, sprockets, clutches. One of the other guys I ride with just had to replace the countershaft on his 525 due to wear. That is a major job because the cases have to be split. Also, I can really see the difference in heat generated. The 450 almost never boils, but the 525 will fairly easy.

In relation to this video clip, I have to say that I do not use the clutch very much. Ten years ago when I was getting ready for my first ISDE I was fortunate enough to spend a bunch of time riding with Jimmy Lewis and that was one of his big lessons. Quit using the clutch, you don’t need it and it just leads to problems, particularly overheating. In the 2002 Czech Six Days, the conditions were horrible. It rained every day. Only half of all the riders finished the event. Of those that went out, I would say that the majority were from either clutch or overheating issues.  The 2003 400exc KTM that I rode in the event was the perfect tool for the job, easy to ride and perfect power for slick conditions. That bike still sits in my garage, sort of like an old horse put out to pasture.

Here is our video for the day:

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Kenda 760 Trackmaster

The Search For Value

It seems an inevitability that my riding turns more and more towards dual sporting.  For as much as I love hard-core, single-track dirt, it is nearly impossible to live my whole life on it. There just is not enough to go around and much of it no longer connects, requiring road riding to connect sections. But, in the true sense of adventure riding, that just becomes part of the fun, to see what lies beyond the next horizon and beyond the boundary of pure knobbies.

The question of tire choice is an unending one. The challenge to balance performance and economy is difficult. I ride thousands of miles of tarmac (Baja) each year on knobbies and for the most part they do pretty well in that environment. The biggest drawback is the accelerated wear. Nothing is more annoying that having your brand new tires start to cup or chunk just because you had to ride road sections to get to the next trailhead.

I have run Kenda tires for years, but I have never tried the 760 Trackmasters. This tire dates back to the era before the more contemporary Washougal and Millville models. I had dismissed the tire as too old school. Yet, I have started to see more and more riders talking about them on the forums, so I decided to take a closer look.

The Trackmaster is a 6 ply DOT approved tire that Kenda suggests as 80/20 dirt bias. That sounds aggressive, but if you have ever ridden on something that is considered 50/50, like most OEM dual sport tires, you know that the dirt performance can be pretty poor. Therefore, 80/20 is more like a real world knobby.

For testing, I mounted the tires up on my trusty 07 KTM 450xc. I have racked up about 900 miles on the rear tire and 700 on the front. My riding was primarily in Baja on fire roads, sand and pavement. Of the total mileage on the tires, about fifty percent of it was on pavement. For economy, I have been using my dual sport bike much more for errands and day rides from home to the desert.

That really highlights my goal with the Trackmaster, to see if I can save some money on my tire bill. I am not looking for a new race tire, so I am willing to accept a little loss of performance if it yields better longevity.

Testing Trackmasters in Baja

First impressions on the tires were very positive. For that matter, I cannot really find any fault with the rear. At 900 miles, it is pretty much used up, but I have not noticed any significant loss of performance as the knobs have worn down. So far, I have not encountered any situation where the Trackmaster rear suffered. Hard, soft, wet or dry, the tire seems at home everywhere.

The wear has been very consistent. On the last ride, I just started to see a few tears in the tread. One thing that I have noticed is that the tires, front and rear, seem to roll very smooth on the pavement. There is very little hopping or vibration, particularly from the front end.

The 80/100/21 front is a little more of a mixed bag of performance. Its strong point is sandy fire roads. In any dry condition that is hard packed or packed with a layer of sand on the top, the 760 sticks like glue. The way the knobs are arranged, in a horizontal row, works extremely well in dry slick conditions.

The front takes a little extra input to turn. The tire feels wide, but it measures 93mm, just about identical to the other bikes in the garage. I think it has a flatter profile and that accounts for the additional turning effort.

The flip side is that the front does not like any wet conditions. Even the slightest amount of moisture encourages the front to break loose in turns. The horizontal tread just does not have any bite once the wheel starts to turn.

Conclusions:

760 Trackmaster Rear: I give this a full recommendation. It scores for performance, durability and economy, both on and off road.

760Trackmaster Front: This gets a qualified recommendation for durability and economy. It shows very little wear at 700 miles and has many more miles of life. The street performance is better than most knobbies. But, if you ride in wet conditions, something like the DOT approved Kenda Washougal front will be a better choice.

If I were planning a trip to La Paz, I would put these tires right at the top of the list for choices, alongside the Dunlop 739.

Best pricing on online for these tires is about $55 rear, $48 front (110/100/18 rear – 80/100/21 front)

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2. 2010 Kenda “Triple” Review
3. MotoZ Tractionator I/T Tire Review

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